Christophe Lemaire, the former creative director of Hermès, showed his
Autumn/Winter 15 collection a day after he announced Lemaire would be
partnering with Uniqlo. His look is an every day wardrobe of unforced
elegance. There are no gimmicks, screaming distinctions or over-styled
looks. Outerwear was strong with raincoats, peacoats, duffles and capes,
and came sculpted and and languid, showing simplicity in complex cutting
and detailing. Shoulders and décolleté were loosely exposed, adding an
element of an erotic undertone. As Lemaire told the New York Times, the
Lemaire woman may well be an intellectual, but she could, perhaps, be naked
under that coat.
Cedric Charlier presented a collection of refined sportswear, favouring
simple lines in a contrast of colour. Green, navy, burgundy and dusty pink
formed the palette alongside bonded and technical fabrics, which were cut
into slim trouser silhouettes, geometric outerwear and sporty suits. A
graphic element came in printed stripes and were seen on evening pleated
dresses, skirts and sporty dresses.
Dries van Noten made utility opulence the order of the day. The opening
look was a gold brocade coat worn over a pair of oversized chinos. Next
came shimmering metallic cloques in elegant short dresses, jacquards in
flowing trousers and neat jackets with puffed sleeves, and tie-on
embroiderd skirts worn over cargo trousers cinched at the waist. Pailettes,
sequins, feathers and floral added a luxurious touch, as did van Noten’s
signature chinoiserie.
The draped dresses that opened the show at Vionnet were the strongest looks
of the collection. They came in sumptuous silk in sorbet colours, were
beautifully fluid and cut on the bias. But then the show changed and the
romantic and demure gowns that began moulded into a harder look with black
on black leather, panel cut dresses, and an optical swirling fur which felt
neither new or so desirable. The aim was to ‘disrupt’ its own poetry, but
the effect led to a challenged understanding of cohesiveness of this
collection and its customer.
Images: Lemaire, Vionnet; AW15
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